The Richness of Autumn

Charles Pridgeon recalls the beauty of Autumn in Japan

I have only visited Japan twice - both times for three weeks - and only in the Summer and Autumn seasons.

I love the Autumn and how the changing of a leaf’s colour depends on the region you’re in; it depends on whether the tree is on a north or a south slope; it depends on the elevation of the ground, sometimes it depends even on where on the branch the leaf is…

The breakfast in ryokans and dinner in restaurants start to include mushrooms and other seasonal foods; there’s a cold snap in the morning air; the oranges on the branches in the orchards on the islands in the Seto inland sea are covered in a muslin; the daytime temperature is still very agreeable.

And to be at night in the Koya-San cemetery following the mile long trail of lanterns as the air cools and the tourists go home, and to finally arrive at the Torodo temple thinking that Kobo Daishi must have a magnificent mausoleum, and to be humbled at that misplaced preconceived idea when I’m pointed round the back of the temple to a simple slab at the end of this long journey. I have no photos to remember that moment as cameras are forbidden from the moment you cross the bridge over the stream near the entrance of the cemetery. I only have memories of that still moonlit autumn evening and an incredible calm.

I can’t wait for our next trip to Japan!